Autumn trekking in Turkey: where to go in September, October and November
Turkey has no shortage of wonderful places to go trekking. Calling autumn “one of the best seasons” for it, though, is a bit of an oversimplification — because once you actually pack your bag and set off, reality slowly starts to hit you. Autumn in Turkey doesn’t arrive everywhere at the same time.
At the start of September, for example, you might still be battling summer heat on a route along the Mediterranean coast, while on a high mountain route you’re heading into the last decent weeks of the season. In October, the forests of the western Black Sea gradually put on a riot of colour, and southern routes like the Lycian Way and the Carian Trail become more and more walkable. By November, some high-altitude routes are edging towards winter conditions, while the trekking season is still going strong on the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts.
So when you’re planning an autumn trek, it makes much more sense to ask not just “Where should I go?” but “Where should I go, and in which month?” That’s exactly what we’ll try to answer, as fully as we can, in this guide.
In short: where to go in which month
| When | Best areas | Why? |
|---|---|---|
| September | The Kaçkar Mountains and high-altitude routes, Cappadocia, the Phrygian Valley | Summer heat is easing, and winter hasn’t fully set in at altitude yet |
| October | Cappadocia, the Phrygian Valley, the Küre Mountains, the Yenice Forests, the Lycian Way | A well-balanced time for walking across most of Turkey |
| Late October – early November | Yedigöller, the Yenice Forests, the western Black Sea | One of the best times for autumn colour |
| November | The Lycian Way, the Carian Trail, around Fethiye, the Muğla–Antalya coast | The summer heat is behind you on the south coast, and walking gets more comfortable |
Don’t treat this table as a fixed calendar. And remember there are plenty of other routes in Turkey beyond these. On top of that, in autumn even a few weeks’ change in the weather can transform conditions, especially at altitude. But the general idea fits in one sentence: head for the high ground early in autumn, and head south as autumn draws to a close.
September: one of the last chances for high altitude
One of the best things about September is that the scorching summer heat slowly starts to ease. Admittedly, hot weather has been lasting longer in recent years. Still, from the second half of the month in particular, much of Turkey becomes more comfortable for long walks.
But there’s one important thing that sets September apart from the other autumn months: if you’re thinking about high-altitude routes, you can’t leave it too late.
The Kaçkar Mountains and high mountain routes
If you’re thinking of taking your trek up to high ground like the Kaçkar Mountains, here’s what you need to remember: the summer season at these altitudes is short to begin with. Culture Routes in Turkey says the summits and the stages crossing high passes on the Kaçkar routes are only open between July and September. In other words, September is the month the season closes on these routes.
The first half of September in particular can still be good for trekking, but you have to allow for the weather changing much faster. The same source also says these routes aren’t waymarked and that GPS waypoints are sent by email on request — so the navigation is entirely down to you.
If most of your trekking experience so far has been on the coast, pay particular attention to these differences. At high altitude, a clear morning can surprise you within a few hours with fog, rain and a sharp drop in temperature. So don’t approach a high-altitude walk in September with a relaxed “autumn’s here, it’s cooled down” attitude; as the month goes on, the seasonal advantage on high mountain routes fades fast.
Cappadocia
If you’re looking for something a little lower-risk, take a look at Cappadocia. Personally, walking for hours across open ground in midsummer doesn’t appeal to me much, but in the autumn months the valleys become both more enjoyable and far more bearable for long walks. You can do walks of different lengths in places like Love Valley, Güllüdere, Kızılçukur, Güvercinlik and Ihlara.
Another nice thing about Cappadocia is that it isn’t just for very experienced trekkers. You don’t have to walk all day with a heavy pack; you can start with valley walks of a few hours and stretch the route out as much as you like. That makes it a very sensible choice for someone who wants to get into trekking in autumn, too.
The Phrygian Valley
If you’re thinking of planning a trip towards Kütahya from late September onwards, the Phrygian Valley is well worth considering. Spring and autumn are generally reckoned to be among the best times for trekking on the Phrygian Way.
One thing needs saying here, though: if you’re expecting constant sea views like on the Lycian Way, or a high mountain atmosphere like in the Kaçkar Mountains, you might not find what you’re looking for. The Phrygian Valley is something a bit different. Open country, rock formations, historic roads and Phrygian ruins become a big part of your walk. If you love combining history with walking, it’s a lovely alternative from late September onwards.
October: the most balanced month for trekking in Turkey
If I had to pick just one month for trekking in Turkey, October would be very near the top of the list. The summer heat is largely behind you, but in many areas winter conditions haven’t started yet. And your options open up all over the country: you can walk in Central Anatolia, head to the western Black Sea, or, towards the end of the month, gradually start making your way down to the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts.
The Küre Mountains
If you’d like to point your route towards the Black Sea, the Küre Mountains around Bartın and Kastamonu are one of the key areas to consider in autumn. Around the national park you’ll find forest, canyons and nature walks of varying difficulty. GoTürkiye gives May to November as the right time for trekking in the Küre Mountains.
Within that window, though, October has a place of its own. Temperatures become better suited to walking, and the texture of the forest slowly begins to turn to autumn colours.
The one thing you need to factor in here is rain. You’re quite likely to come across wet leaves, mud and slippery ground. Take a little more care than usual over where you put your feet, especially on descents through the forest.
The Yenice Forests
If we’re talking about autumn, the Yenice Forests in Karabük deserve a place on this list too. This is an area that will appeal less to people who simply “want to go trekking” and more to those who love walking for hours on end through the woods.
There are several walking trails, and the way the forest changes colour in autumn is one of the best things about the area. That’s why the period from mid-October to early November is so tempting. Of course, it’s hard to give an exact date for autumn colour; depending on temperatures and rainfall, it can shift by a few weeks from year to year. Autumn is also the busiest time of year for trail and ultra races; the Cenedag Ultra Trail on 22 November is one of the last big dates in that calendar.
By the way, if you’ve decided to go all the way to the Yenice Forests, don’t skip Safranbolu. Its historic houses and Turkish delight are worth the extra few kilometres. Depending on your plans, you could even stay there and save the walk for another day.
Late October and early November: time for forest routes
If part of the point of your autumn trek is walking among forests turning yellow, orange and red, then late October to early November is a season of its own. The high-altitude options start to dwindle, but this time it’s the forests that take centre stage.
Yedigöller
Yedigöller in Bolu is one of the best-known examples. But it wouldn’t really be right to think of it as a long-distance, technical trekking route; it’s more a place for nature walks, short trails and autumn scenery. That makes it one of the most accessible choices for people going on an autumn nature walk for the first time, too.
A quick word of warning, though: make sure you factor in the weekend crowds. It’s a very popular spot in autumn, and turning up to enjoy nature in peace only to find yourself in the middle of a crowd isn’t much fun. On busy routes, following hiking etiquette matters even more than usual.
From October, it’s time to head south: the Lycian Way
As autumn goes on, the focus for trekking gradually shifts towards the Mediterranean. And one of the best examples of that is, without doubt, the Lycian Way. Walking the whole route, which runs from Fethiye towards Antalya, is a project in its own right; the good news is that you don’t have to finish the Lycian Way in one go. You can walk it in sections of a few days, or even as day walks.
Culture Routes in Turkey gives September to November as one of the best times for trekking the Lycian Way, and says the summer months are too hot for long walks. Personally, though, I wouldn’t lump September and November together. On sunny sections close to the coast especially, the heat in early September can still be exhausting. From October, conditions become much more comfortable, and in November many stages are still perfectly walkable.
Here are some sections you could add to your autumn trekking plans:
- Fethiye – Kayaköy
- Ovacık – Faralya
- Faralya – Kabak
- Around Kaş
- Çıralı – Olympos
Just don’t fall into the trap of thinking, “I’m walking by the sea, how hard can it be?” on the Lycian Way. Some sections have serious changes in elevation, stony ground and narrow paths; a sea view doesn’t mean the route is easy.
There are also tour companies running organised walks on the Lycian Way, section by section. If you’re hesitant about walking alone or aren’t very confident with navigation, it’s worth looking at group options.
November: the Carian Trail and the southern Aegean take the lead
By November, rain and cold are more noticeable in the north of Turkey, and winter conditions are starting to show on high ground as well. In and around Muğla, though, things are a little different.
The Carian Trail
The Carian Trail is a very extensive network of routes, around 800 kilometres long, spreading around Bozburun, Datça, Gökova and Latmos and reaching into the provinces of Muğla and Aydın. For trekkers, one of the area’s biggest advantages is its long walking season. The self-guided walking programmes Culture Routes in Turkey offers for the Bozburun Peninsula are available all twelve months of the year; in other words, there’s barely such a thing as “off season” on this route.
That’s why the southern Aegean coast becomes so much more valuable in November. The heat that can wear you down when walking across open ground in summer is behind you, and at the same time you’ve largely escaped the early winter conditions in the high mountains. If you like sea views, ancient paths and small coastal villages, the Carian Trail is one of the best options for the tail end of autumn.
How to choose an area for autumn trekking
We’ve covered a lot of areas so far, but you don’t have to remember every one of them. When choosing an autumn trekking route, you can keep a simple system in your head.
Early September: make the most of high altitude
You can use the time that’s left in the mountains before the season closes. But the forecast matters far more here than at other times; even a few days of falling temperatures can completely change conditions at altitude.
Late September – mid-October: the widest choice
For me, this is the most relaxed part of autumn. You can choose between completely different areas like Cappadocia, the Phrygian Valley and the Küre Mountains, and in the south, temperatures are gradually becoming better suited to long walks. The mountain season isn’t completely over, and winter hasn’t made itself seriously felt in the north.
Mid-October – early November: head for the forest routes
If part of what you want from autumn is those classic yellow and orange landscapes, mark this period in your calendar. Yedigöller, Yenice and the other forested areas of the western Black Sea come into their own at this time. But if you want to catch the colours you see in photos, don’t rely too much on an exact date; autumn colour can arrive a few weeks earlier or later depending on the weather.
November: head down to the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts
You don’t have to give up trekking when the weather gets tough in the north — this time we just point the route south. The Lycian Way, the Carian Trail and routes around Fethiye and Muğla start to come to the fore. Plenty of trails you’d avoid in summer because of the heat can make a lot more sense in November.
In short, as the season goes on, we generally move across the map from high altitude and the north towards the lower-lying southern and western coasts.
Don’t underestimate the weather when trekking in autumn
The best thing about autumn is the cool weather; the most annoying thing is that you can never quite tell what that cool weather is going to do. You might set off in morning sunshine and a few hours later have to dig your waterproof out of your pack, and in the mountains you can add fog and a sharp drop in temperature to that. So rather than setting off because “the weather looks fine”, check the forecast again on the morning of your walk and go over the basic rules of trekking safety.
Your pack should also be a little different from a summer walk. At the very least, it should have:
- a lightweight waterproof jacket,
- quick-drying clothes,
- a thin mid layer you can add when you need it,
- enough water,
- an offline map or GPS,
- a head torch.
Don’t underestimate the head torch in particular. If you’ve spent the summer getting used to hours of daylight, it’s easy to miss how quickly the day ends in autumn. The route takes an hour longer than you expected, you linger in a few places, and suddenly you’re trying to walk the last few kilometres in the dark. In a situation like that, a small head torch that takes up almost no room in your pack can become the most valuable bit of kit you’ve got.
On autumn walks, your choice of trousers matters as much as your jacket; on a day that’s cool in the morning, warm at midday and rainy by late afternoon, a mid-weight, quick-drying, lightly water-repellent pair will do the job. In our guide on how to choose trekking trousers, we go into fabric, water repellency and stretch in detail.
As for footwear, you don’t have to switch automatically to a Gore-Tex pair just because the calendar says October or November. A three-hour walk on dry ground in Cappadocia doesn’t need the same thing as the Yenice Forests after a few days of rain. So it’s better to decide based on the route, the ground and the forecast rather than the season. In wet, cool conditions, the right trekking socks that keep your feet dry often help more than changing your boots; and if you want to go over your gear as the seasons change, have a look at our piece on end-of-season outdoor gear.
So which is the best month for autumn trekking?
There’s no single answer that suits everyone. But if I had to pick one month for general purposes, I’d see October as one of the most balanced options. Even though the high mountain season is nearing its end, you can still walk across most of Turkey: in the north the forests are starting to change colour, in Central Anatolia temperatures are dropping, and on the Aegean and Mediterranean the summer heat is losing its grip.
If you already know where you’re going, though, the answer changes. If you want mountain walking, September makes more sense; if you want to see autumn forests, late October; and if you’re thinking of southern routes like the Lycian Way or the Carian Trail, October to November.
And for me, that’s the best thing about planning autumn treks: as the season closes in one area, it’s just getting started in another. You might be looking at the Kaçkar Mountains in September, planning the Yenice Forests a few weeks later, and by November have the Lycian Way or the Carian Trail in your sights. In other words, the arrival of autumn doesn’t mean the end of the trekking season; you just need to move your route to a different spot on the map.
So get the order right before you pack your bag: first fix your dates, then choose a route that suits them. Doing it the other way round in autumn can mean walking a route you think is beautiful at completely the wrong time.