Hardshell Jackets: What Do 2L, 2.5L, and 3L Mean?
You’ve found two jackets that look pretty similar. Both have hoods, both are waterproof, and one says 2.5L on the label while the other says 3L. Then you look at the price tags. Depending on the jackets, that’s quite a jump. Is that extra half layer really worth the money? The L stands for “layer.” The number tells you how the jacket’s waterproof fabric is built. The membrane or waterproof coating beneath the outer fabric is what keeps the rain out. To see what sets the three constructions apart, turn the jacket inside out and look at what protects that waterproof layer from the inside.
Why does a 2L jacket have a separate lining?
In a 2L jacket, the outer fabric and waterproof layer are bonded together. Inside, there’s usually a separate lining made of mesh or lightweight fabric. Lift the hem a little and you’ll see that the lining moves independently of the shell. It protects the waterproof layer and hangs separately, so it sits outside the two layers counted on the label.
That lining can feel nicer over a thin T-shirt. It’s a small difference you might appreciate if you’re commuting or traveling and keeping your jacket on for hours. You’ll also notice the extra room it takes up when you stuff the jacket into your pack.
What’s the half layer in a 2.5L jacket?
Turn the jacket inside out and you might see a pattern of little dots. The half layer in a 2.5L jacket is a thin protective print or coating applied to the inside of the waterproof layer. That surface treatment does the job a separate inner fabric would otherwise do.
Without a separate lining, the jacket usually folds down easily and takes up less room in your pack. Then there’s how it feels against your skin. Some models can stick to bare arms once you start sweating. If you plan to wear yours over a T-shirt in summer, try it on in short sleeves.
What does the third layer in a 3L jacket do?
In a 3L jacket, the outer fabric, membrane, and inner fabric are laminated together. Pick it up and all three feel like one piece of fabric. The inner fabric protects the membrane from friction and skin oils. The outer fabric takes the wear where your pack straps rub or you brush against rock.
Put two 3L jackets side by side and one might feel thin and flexible while the other feels more substantial. They can differ quite a bit in weight and feel even with the same layer count. One might be easier to tuck into your pack, while the other might have tougher fabric at the shoulders for carrying a heavier load.
Same trail, two very different hiking days
On day one, the skies are clear, but there’s a chance of rain in the afternoon. You throw the jacket in your pack that morning, pull it out for a quick downpour, then pack it away when the rain eases. If your jacket spends most of the day wedged between your water bottle and your snacks, a 2.5L shell that packs down small makes sense.
On day two, the jacket is on before you’ve walked your first kilometer. The rain keeps coming, you warm up on the climb, and the pack comes off at every break and goes right back on. If that sounds like a regular day out for you, paying more for a 3L shell with durable outer fabric and easy-to-open vents can make sense. A heavy pack’s shoulder straps will rub the same spots all day. When you’re weighing the price difference, think about how often you actually hike in those conditions.
How do you compare two jackets with the same layer count?
- Waterproofing and seams. Numbers like 10,000 or 20,000 mm on the product page tell you how much water pressure the fabric withstood in testing. For the jacket as a whole, check whether all the seams are taped and how the front zipper is protected from rain.
- Ventilation. Some of the dampness you feel inside the jacket on a rainy climb comes from sweat. Underarm zippers let you get some airflow with the front zipped up. If you hike at a brisk pace, make sure you can reach those zippers with your pack on.
- Outer fabric. If you see 20D or 70D on the label, the D stands for denier, a measure of how much a given length of yarn weighs. Among similar fabrics, a higher number can indicate a thicker yarn. The weave also affects how well the fabric holds up to abrasion. If you carry a heavy pack, check whether the shoulders use tougher fabric as well.
- When the outer fabric wets out. The finish that makes raindrops bead up can wear down over time. When the outer fabric absorbs water and darkens, the jacket can feel heavier and damper. That dark patch alone tells you very little about whether water has made it through the membrane.
A two-minute fitting-room check
Try the jacket on with whatever you’d wear on the trail. A jacket that feels roomy over a T-shirt can suddenly feel tight once you add a fleece and a pack.
- Adjust the hood and turn your head. Does the hood move with you when you look left and right? If you turn to look sideways and get an eyeful of jacket, see how much you can adjust it.
- With your fleece on, reach forward and overhead. Do the shoulders pull, the cuffs slide past your wrists, or the hem ride up and expose your waist? If you use trekking poles, bend your elbows a few times too.
- Put on your pack and buckle the hip belt. Can you still get to your phone pocket and the vent zipper? It’s easier to find out in the store than to take your pack off and put it back on in the rain.
If you’re shopping for winter, the layer count tells you how the shell is built. The hardshell keeps out rain and wind, while most of your warmth comes from the fleece or insulated midlayer you wear underneath.
Source: REI rainwear buying guide